From the canal to Bern

We arrived at Decize, where we joined the canal boat, at around 5.30 p.m. The instructions said to be there between 4 pm and 6 pm and we knew that we were going to be much nearer 6 pm and to make matters worse we couldn’t find the actual port area. If only we had listened to the GPS it would have been helpful! However we rang the depot and they kindly came and met us. I think that they were conscious that if they didn’t they might be held up at the end of their working day!

The boat we have is called a Tamaris. It is ten metres long and has two main cabins, the front where Peter and I slept had twin berths, and fortunately for Peter one was quite a bit wider than the other. The area cabin had a double bed. There was also a double bed in the living area and also another single bed. There were two toilet/shower areas and a small galley kitchen. It was more than comfortable and was fully equipped. It took a bit
of an adjustment to pump the water into the toilet, wee then pump the water out of the toilet again. To have a shower you closed the toilet lid, turned on the shower then pumped the water out at the end. Quite an experience.

Sailing time is limited to daylight hours and an 8 km per hour speed limit. The locks were mostly manned by a lock keeper, but over the five days we went through four that were automatic. The locks could only be used between 9 am and 12 noon then 1 pm to 7 pm.

The first night we negotiated the first of the automatic locks, then sailed to just prior to the first manned lock and as it was nearing 7 pm by then we moored to the side of the canal and stayed overnight. The rain came in overnight and did it pour. For most of Tuesday it rained, varying between light showers and torrential downpours. Peter and Garey shared the driving of the boat and at the locks the rope tying and holding procedure. As for Sharryn and me, we opted to provide food as required and relaxed the rest of the time. And that is how we spent our five days. The guys taking turns driving and holding ropes, Sharryn and me preparing and cleaning up after food, giving instructions and generally relaxing. It was certainly the lifestyle to which we were keen to continue.

We sailed all day on the Tuesday and stopped at one of the little villages to moor and had dinner at the local pub. Great food, red wine served in a carafe and a lovely French lady to serve us. There were only two other guys plus us in the restaurant. The menus are easy for us to manage with our French ability – four courses (entrée of salads, main course, cheeses, dessert and lots of bread continually provided) and no choice. All this four 12 Euros per person (about $24.00 NZ) so was great value.

We decided to make that stop the furthest distance along the canal we would travel. So next morning we started our slow trip back down the canal – in all about 70 kilometres. We stopped at most of the villages, Sharryn and I rode the bikes along the track until my bum hurt so much from the bike seat and the uneven tracks caused my wrists to ache. Garey took over from me at one point but I noted that was the only time he sat his bum anywhere near the bike seat, and needless to say Peter never even attempted.

We found that most of the villages were “people less” or so they seemed. We saw very few people at all unless they were in either the patisserie or the bar serving us. Fortunately other than the first day the weather improved and for most of the time the sun shone but it could have been a bit warmer.

On Thursday we took a side canal into Nevers which is the largest town on that part of the canal. We moored near the town and walked into the city and we were able to access the internet for the first time and updated the blog. That night we walked back into the town and chose a wonderful restaurant for dinner. It was a great choice – very French with wonderful friendly staff and even more superb food and wine. We again had the standard four courses and each course had an accompanying wine. The waitress spoke a little English so she was able to interpret the menu for us and we were able to make educated choices as there was a choice of three for each course. It was a great night out and we appreciated the walk back to the boat to help our food settle. It was the eve of our wedding anniversary and a lovely way to celebrate.

Friday we sailed back to the main canal then on into Decize where we moored at the mooring and could then take the rental car into the township to look around. We really enjoyed our five days on the canal – it was relaxing to say the least, particularly for Sharryn and me. It was a perfect way to start our holiday and one that all of us would be keen to try again sometime in the future.

Today is Saturday and we have left Decize and are driving to Bern in Switzerland. Our drive has taken us north to Besancon through the wine areas. We stopped near Beaune (which is just south of Dijon) and visited one of the small boutique wineries and after sampling bought some red wine. The castles we saw along the way were just amazing. We stopped for coffee at one of the small villages and again our wonderful French ability was put to the test. We must be getting better as we got what we wanted. Shame we leave French behind today and have to move on to German!

Peter and I are sitting in the car beside the Citadel in Besancon while Sharryn and Garey have a quick look. Peter and I visited the Citadel with Cam back in 2004 so decided not to go in this time. There are not the crowds here this time as there were when we visited in June. Shortly we cross the border in to Switzerland, near La Chaux de Fonds where Cam lived when he was in Switzerland for the year. Unfortunately his family are away in Vietnam on holiday so we won’t see them this time. Next stop overnight is Bern.